Atlanta: A local's view
by Chuck Mavis



Atlanta has always been a city that looked forward. When citizens laid the first railroad tracks in the 1840s, they were already dreaming of a town that would become a transportation hub. After Gen. Sherman marched through town during the Civil War, the city's residents wasted no time in rebuilding. And when it was in the early stages of becoming an international city, Atlanta had the gall to make a bid to host the Olympic Games.

All the visions came true, making Atlanta one of the crown jewels of the southeast. It's that same forward-looking stubbornness, though, that might disappoint some visitors. While the city might be best known as the birthplace and setting of Gone With The Wind, you won't find a lot of ties to the novel here. And those Olympics? With the exception of one or two attractions, you'd never know they had been here.

What you will find in Atlanta is hospitality, shopping and some really good food. You'll also find a cultural base that defies all Southern stereotypes and a wealth of opportunities to have a good time.

While you won't find "Tara" in Atlanta, there are a couple of places to soak in the atmosphere Margaret Mitchell detailed in Gone With the Wind. The newly opened Margaret Mitchell House acts as a focal point for fans of Scarlett and Rhett. Built on the same ground where Mitchell pecked out the book on a battered typewriter, it tells visitors the story behind the story and lets them browse through a museum of GWTW memorabilia. Costumed characters often make appearances throughout town to catch tourists' eyes, but otherwise, there's not much left to see of the great novel -- or the movie it spawned.

Tara was, in fact, simply a facade created for the film. It was dismantled after shooting wrapped. Loew's Grand Theater, where the movie premiered, no longer stands. And despite numerous false starts, there is still no GWTW-based theme park.

One piece of Atlanta history you won't have any trouble finding, though, is Coca-Cola. The drink was developed here -- and the company that makes it still calls Atlanta home. The corporate headquarters don't offer tours, but one must-see attraction is the World of Coke museum downtown. There you can learn the history of the world's best-selling soft drink -- and taste several Coke products that aren't sold in the United States.

Atlanta's also home to the Cable News Network. Snuggled away in CNN Center (alongside the Omni Hotel), this news organization keeps the world abreast of breaking stories. There is a tour, which is a popular stop for most visitors. It won't provide you with an up-close look at how the network runs, but you will get to see a broadcast in process (albeit from a catwalk far above the din of the newsroom) and watch these professionals in action.

If you'd rather explore the city without the benefits of a tour guide, the Virginia-Highland and Little Five Points areas are a good place to start. The two are the 'art' districts of the city, with a more bohemian lifestyle and lots of quaint shops, wonderful restaurants and good places to hear great music. Buckhead gets the lion's share of the spotlight when it comes to bars and nightclubs, but residents looking for a little less glitz stick to VH or L5P. The atmosphere's more casual. The music's usually better. And the drinks are a lot cheaper. Popular stops include Limerick Junction (an Irish bar with friendly patrons and traditional music), Blind Willies (the blues bar in Atlanta) and The Point (a popular stop for up-and-coming alternative bands).

The cultural arts are especially big in Atlanta. The High Museum has made a national name for itself over the past few years, attracting exhibits featuring the works of Picasso and other masters. The Atlanta Symphony has won numerous Grammy Awards for its moving interpretations of classical masterpieces. The Alliance Theater (a part of the Woodruff Arts Center) was the birthplace of Driving Miss Daisy. There's also the King Plow Arts Center, home of Actor's Express, one of the city's most popular theater troupes.

Perhaps more telling is the success of the Arts Festival of Atlanta, held every September. The event's popularity has been growing so steadily that it was forced to move from its original Piedmont Park home to the downtown area in 1997. Actors, artists and musicians show their work in this free event. The Artist's Market gives patrons a place to purchase work from show participants.

Its artistic ventures may attract thousands, but even more come to Atlanta for the shopping. With Lenox Square, Phipps Plaza, Towne Center and more than a dozen other malls, the city is a mecca for shopahaulics around the southeast. Virtually any store you can imagine can be found here. Coming soon is The Mall of Georgia, a 350,000-square-foot shopping area that promises to attract even more retail names.

If you like to eat, then Atlanta's a great choice. There are a wealth of fine restaurants in every price range. If you're looking for a costly, but memorable meal, you can't go wrong with Seeger's, a relatively new offering headed by Atlanta's favorite chef. Good luck getting reservations though.The Atlanta Fish Market is another good choice for a special evening out when you're not traveling on a budget. If you're looking to spend a little less, there's nothing better than Mumbo Jumbo. An eclectic fusion of traditional southern dishes with haute cuisine, this downtown eatery was the most popular spot during the Olympics. It's just as hot today.

If you're dining on a budget, there are several excellent choices in Atlanta -- all of which will give you an insider's view of the city. TheVarsity -- and its mouth-watering chili dogs -- is an Atlanta tradition and demands a visit. The Vortex is the place to go when you want a really good burger. And Melton's Ap & Tap, in the suburb of Decatur, is a friendly place to grab a beer and a well-cooked, inexpensive meal.

The king of Atlanta bars, though, is Manual's Tavern. This is where the politicos, the journalists and the cops hang out -- and where the people watching is the best. Dark and smoky, it will bore the kids, but mom and dad will be enthralled. It's also one of the best places in Atlanta to see a famous face. Former President Jimmy Carter, for instance, frequents this watering hole regularly. (And why not? It's just a stone's throw from The Carter Center, the home of the Carter Presidential Library.)

Summers in Atlanta can be torrid. If you're planning a visit in July or August, brace yourself for muggy, hot days, where temperatures regularly hover in the mid-to-low 90s. Winter can be a lot colder than you expect, as well. You'll need more than a light jacket.

Fortunately, every major -- and most minor -- attractions are climate controlled, so even if you come to town in the middle of a heat wave or cold burst, you'll stay fairly comfortable. And if you're lucky enough to be planning a spring or fall trip, you'll never want to leave. Both seasons are delightful, as the entire city rushes outdoors to enjoy the weather that made the south famous.