Canoeing Florida
by Omar Perez



While boating is a popular pastime in the waters off Florida's coast, canoeing the state's rivers is just as, if not more, enjoyable. Unlike boat trips, canoe excursions allow visitors to truly experience nature in its most pristine form, floating through tranquil settings that could go unnoticed because of a boat engine.

One popular destination for canoeists is the Peace River in central Florida. The river flows nearly 133 miles from Lake Hancock near Bartow to Charlotte Harbor near Punta Gorda. But the more traveled area lies between Arcadia and Fort Meade. The Peace, as it is most commonly called, is lined with lush vegetation and trees that line the dark river's banks. As with many Florida rivers, the water's blackish-brown color comes from the natural tint of leaves and bark mixing with the water. Gentle curves cut through a forest that allows you to hear the sound of wind as it approaches from the distance.

Canoe outfitters, including Canoe Safari and Canoe Outpost just outside of Arcadia near State Road 70, provide adventurers with nearly everything needed, from canoes to tents to cooking utensils and stoves. (Canoeists are responsible for bringing their own food and water.) The half-day trips range from a nine to 15-mile trek through the river, and prices for canoe rentals start at $23. More adventurous travelers can take the 39-mile trip, which takes at least two days to complete without any hurry. As with all rivers, the level of water can speed or slow down the trip. But even if one is forced to get out of the canoe and push it through low tide, there's always the opportunity to scour through the sand and find prehistoric shark teeth and Indian arrowheads.

For those who prefer to test their navigational skills instead of taking a passive ride, the Everglades Wilderness Waterway allows paddlers to navigate as much or as little of the 100-mile water route as they wish. The Waterway stretches from Everglades City on the Gulf of Mexico to Flamingo on the Florida Bay. Canoe rentals are available for as little as $30 for a half-day excursion. The marked trail works its way through open bays, though adjacent creeks and rivers increase one's need to explore, as do the maze-like mangroves. Maps and guides, which the park sells, are highly recommended for first-time visitors.

Since there is little land to camp on, chickee platforms offer an alternative to sleeping on less desirable areas. Technically, one can spend several days in the Everglades and not set foot on the ground once because of the chickees, which are modeled after those built by the Seminoles. The chickees, which come equipped with outhouses, must be rented in advance. During summer months it is recommended to rent them, since beaches and camping spots are likely to draw more unwanted guests, including mosquitoes. Still, be prepared for the pesky critters. Citronella candles and repellant are recommended, if not mandatory.

The Suwannee River starts at southeast Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp and flows more than 200 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. But there are a number of areas in Florida that allow the drop-off of a canoe and sandbars to camp on. Perhaps one of the most unusual sights on the river is the Big Shoals water rapid, located about six miles south of White Springs. While there are smaller rapids, the Big Shoals be extra cautious of the Big Shoals. Even experienced canoeists are advised to walk their vessels. The Outfitter, a canoe outpost located near Live Oak, offers one-day trips starting at $19. Renting a canoe at this outpost means you won't go through the Big Shoals, since it is about 20 miles north.

The Loxahatchee River in West Florida provides a short but enjoyable experience. The eight-mile trip starts west of Jupiter and ends at the Jonathan Dickinson State Park, about 12 miles south of Stuart. No overnight stay is required, though camping spots are available. This stretch of water requires getting out of the canoe at least once, particularly at a four-foot high dam. Luckily there is a wooden ramp that allows visitors to safely walk their canoe a few yards before launching again. (There's a much smaller dam, though canoeists can generally pass right over it without even noticing, depending on the water level.) A few miles down lies the Trapper Nelson Interpretive Site. Here paddlers can dock, use the picnic facilities, or just take a break. Guided tours of the area are also available by The Jupiter Outdoor Center, which also has canoe rentals and instruction services.

Another fairly easy trip that is good for beginners is the one on Coldwater Creek, near the town of Holt in the Panhandle area. The 18-mile trip on the creek's translucent water draws both canoeists and inner tube floaters alike, and the shallow waters make the trip more comforting. The Blackwater State Forest surrounds the creek, and camping is available both in a natural or man-made setting.

So contrary to popular belief, there is more to Florida than Mickey Mouse or South Beach. While one person cruises their boombox-powered car down Miami Beach's Ocean Drive, another propels a silent canoe down a more serene path. And on a clear night you can forget about the movie stars. Nature's twinkle will make sure of that.