Philadelphia Craft Breweries Recall Past Glory
by Jack Curtin

Philadelphia was the brewing center of the American Colonies. Look beyond stodgy history books and you'll discover that the Founding Fathers did as much work on the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution in local taverns as they ever did in Constitution Hall. Benjamin Franklin, whose fondness for a pint of ale is immortalized in his famous remark "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy," sought that happiness regularly in the more than 100 taverns that dotted the streets of his hometown.

Things change. When the last two of the city's great breweries, Ortlieb's and Schmidt's, closed their doors in the 1980s, Philadelphia was without a beer to call its own for the first time ever (ignoring the abomination of Prohibition). The opening of Stoudt Brewing Company in nearby Adamstown in 1987 alleviated the situation somewhat, as did the creation of Dock Street Brewpub and Restaurant in center city in 1990. The emergence of Amber Lager from D.C. Yuengling & Son of Pottsville, the nation's oldest continually operating brewery (since 1829), as a cult favorite brew also eased the pain. For the most part, though, Philadelphians were resigned to big bland national brands on their taps.

The circle has come 'round again in the '90s and the City of Brotherly Love can lay claim once more to being a leading brewing center. It is likely that more different styles of beer are brewed, and brewed well, in the city and surrounding region than in any other part of the country. This still seems to be something of a well-kept secret, unfortunate for brewers and publicans but good news for thirsty travelers with an evening or two free to experience a great city pint by pint.

Independence Brewing Company was the first local microbrewery to go on line, in January 1995, with Independence Gold and Ale. They've acquired several smaller brands over the years since (including Nittany Ale, marketed to Penn State alums) but lately have been concentrating on their core beers. Flagship brew is FranklinFest, a pleasant lager that has been a consistent medal winner at the Great American Beer Festival and other competitions.

Red Bell Brewing Company has purchased and refurbished the historic F. A. Poth & Sons brewery in the city's old "Brewerytown" section and has focused on the brewpub side of the business, with a flourishing site in the First Union Center (home to the Philadelphia 76ers and Flyers) and a scheduled pub (the city's largest) due soon at 12th & Filbert Streets, in the shadow of City Hall. Red Bell is also planning to open a brewpub in State College, home of Penn State (brewers must know something about that institution). Original Philadelphia
Lager is their best known product, but don't miss Wee Heavy Scotch Ale or Heffe Weizen if either are available on tap.

In 1997, when Henry Ortlieb fulfilled his dream to get back into the beer business, in which his family had played a major role, he couldn't use his own name because the Ortlieb label was owned by Stroh's. Thus was born Poor Henry's Brewery and Brewpub on North American Street in the city's Northern Liberties section on a site where, according to one local historian, lager was first brewed in America in 1842. Now Stroh's is gone and The Henry Ortlieb Brewing Company produces Poor Henry's and Dock Street brews in draft and bottles (Ortlieb acquired the Dock Street label in 1998) as well as Henry Ortlieb's Select Lager. Dock Street Amber and Ortlieb's Select are unique among local micros in that they are also available in cans.

To really be one with the Philadelphia beer experience, make sure you sample Yards Extra Special Ale, the signature brew of the city's fourth and smallest full-scale brewery, Yards Brewing Company. It was the introduction of Yards ESA, coupled with the brewers' insistence that it be properly served on a traditional hand pump, that kick-started the micro revolution in Philadelphia. When the first hand-pulled pint was served on May 19, 1995 at the Dawson Street Pub, a funky former biker bar hidden away at the corner of Cresson and Dawson Streets in the Manayunk section, everything changed.

There are two additional producers of fresh-brewed beer within city limits. The renamed and revitalized Dock Street Brasserie continues to function as a brewpub/restaurant at 18th & Cherry Streets and distributes its popular Savage Beer on draft to selected beer bars. Manayunk Brewing Company operates a brewpub and restaurant on Main Street in Manayunk - its terrace overlooking the Schuylkill River may be as enticing a spot as you've ever quaffed a pint.

All that said, the very best brewery in the region (arguably one of the 10 best in the country) is Victory Brewing Company, located 30 miles west of the city in Downingtown in an old bread factory hidden away in a commercial shopping complex. Even though the site also houses a brewpub, it's probably too long a haul for the casual visitor, but be sure to seek out Victory's award-winning HopDevil Ale, exquisite Prima Pils or mind-blowing Imperial Stout in the establishment of your choice. Heck, try anything with a Victory label.

Other outstanding breweries in the region include Dogfish Head, with a brewery in Lewes, DE and a brewpub in Rehobeth Beach, DE. Look for Shelter Pale Ale, Raison D'etre (a brown ale) or Aprihop (an American pale ale made with whole apricots). Hate fruit beers, you say? Aprihop will change your mind. And if that doesn't, Raspberry Imperial Stout, produced by Weyerbacher Brewing Company, out of Easton, PA, will certainly do the job. Weyerbacher has a brewpub too, should you find yourself up north. Flying Fish Brewing Company, just across the Delaware River in Cherry Hill, NJ, is another local treasure. Try their Hop Phish Ale.

Brewpubs are where you'll find the freshest beers, of course, but a good beer bar provides more options. To find one, your best bet is to get yourself to the corner of Market and Second Streets and face the Delaware River. Turn left and go up a block and take a right on Church Street, then turn right again into the parking lot just past the coffee house and you'll find Sugar Mom's Church Street Lounge, an underground enclave of fine brews. Better yet, go right at Second and Market. Halfway down the block is Brownie's Irish Pub. A few doors beyond that is The Khyber (which, in its previous incarnation as Khyber Pass, was the city's first great beer bar). Or continue a few blocks to take a right on South Street, then left on Third and you're at O'neal's, a bar in a converted row home which is one of the city's rising stars. Another excellent option, especially for the young and hip, is 700, just around the corner from Poor Henry's at 700 North Second Street.

Should you need a bit of protective cover for your beer-oriented touring, check out McGillan's Olde Ale House at 1313 Drury Street, the city's oldest continually operating pub, obviously of historic interest. Also, an organization called Historic Philadelphia runs The Tippler's Tour on Friday afternoons spring through fall (215-629-5802 for information). This is a 90-minute 18th Century Tavern Tour which ends up at a favorite spot of our Founding Fathers, City Tavern at 132 South Second Street. Special beers on tap there include 1776 Ale and George Washington Stout, both brewed for City Tavern by Stoudt's. Ben Franklin would have approved.