A Tour of Downtown Bars and Lounges
by Karen Solomon



Cigar-toting hipsters and stodgy old suits share the same classy drinking establishments in the City by the Bay. Certainly SF has no shortage of places to just pop in for a beer, but if you're looking to be wowed and to sample a bit of class in your glass, clasp on the rhinestones and clip-on ties and indulge in a night of cocktails with a twist.

The downtown area, bustling with business by day, takes on a more elegant feel when the martinis start to stir, and on your next trip to the big city, you must make the time for an evening out. But first, a few rules: 1) Don't drive. Driving after alcohol is always stupid, and besides, you'll never find parking, 2) Wear comfy shoes and walk whenever possible, as for the most part you'll take in a lovely view and some gorgeous hotels 3) Restrict yourself to only one cocktail at each stop or you'll forget to move on.

If you're looking for an elegant happy hour cocktail, spend the day touring downtown and head to the House of Shields for an end of the day refresher. This old-money drinking establishment, located on the corner of Market Street and New Montgomery, still echoes the turn-of-the-century bankers sporting monocles and brass canes who came to guffaw at one another's jokes at the end of the business day. Glorious high ceilings and rich, dark woodwork surround the sumptuous bar and its neighboring baby grand cocktail piano. Try to arrive before 5:00 or you'll never find a plush, red leather booth. Complimentary chips and homemade salsa provided. What to drink: whiskey or bourbon on the rocks.

Grab a cab and ask the driver to take you to the corner of California and Mason, home of the Tonga Room inside the Fairmont Hotel. Prepare yourself to be wowed at the Tonga Room's homage to questionable 1960's refuse and Polynesian chic. Lovers of Hawaii and Tiki culture will swoon at the islandic charm, rattan and wicker furniture, thatched hut umbrellas and, best of all, the indoor manmade lake proudly flowing center stage. Sit lakeside and enjoy faux thunder, lightning and an indoor rain storm every half hour that completes the tropical illusion of balmy weather. Live bands perform from the center of this watery hole suspended by an ersatz electronic boat. Not to be missed if you haven't the time for The Big Island. Bring children and enjoy a poo-poo platter. What to drink: anything fruity, frozen and well-garnished.

Shake of the retro and take in a bit of the modern. A scenic six-block walk through the impressive Nob Hill hotel district (down Mason and West onto Sutter Street) brings you to the hipper-than-thou Red Room. Another popular after work and into the wee hours theme bar, the Red Room is severe and crisp and Red. Red, red, red. Perfect for Valentine's Day or for when you feel like descending into the bowels of hell. Ultra sleek glass bricks magnify the red leather booths, bar stools, and rich blood-color walls. Vampires and yuppies alike sip dainty ruddy cocktails through painted lips and enjoy feeling "bad". Go, don't stop to this sample of SF's red light district. What to drink: you guessed it; a Bloody Mary, a Pink Lady or anything in between.You've seen old, you've seen new, and you've tasted the exotic. Where to next?

This is San Francisco, thus you must sample the unique and the bizarre. For the sake of balance, next stop is nearby C. Bobbie's Owl Tree, located on the corner of Post and Taylor. Do you like cocktails, owls, or both? Then C. Bobbie's will not disappoint. Don't skip this small, neighborhood bar with cozy seats, inexpensive drinks, tasty snack mix and a great mix of hygienically-challenged guys with dogs, slumming scenester girls, bar flies, night owls, and working people. Best of all, savor your favorite beverage and take in the decorating motif: Owls. The walls are plastered with the birds of prey in painting, sculpture, wood and macramé. Pairs of night-hunting eyeballs stare from every corner. If you start to squirm, drink up and let's stumble on...... What to drink: beer or a well drink.

Walk one block down the hill on Taylor and you will come across The Clift Hotel. Tuck your shirt back in, run your fingers through your hair and step inside and into The Redwood Room (not to be confused with the Red Room we visited earlier). Simply walking inside will make you the glamour puss you've always wanted to be. Prepare to cough up a chunk of change and enjoy more savory snacks and table service. This massive historic SF meeting place is paneled with the wood of a single, ancient redwood tree. Check your politically correct and environmental sentiments just long enough to savor the rich beauty and grain of this coveted and protected wood. Enormous Klimt paintings add a classy, golden hue to the majestic room. You'll want to spark up a fat stogey as people have done for decades, but current state laws prohibit smoking in bars. Small, redecorated sofas are comfy but fail the grandiose classic look of the bar. Servers in black ties and soft piano and bass jazz smooth the finish of your cocktail experience. What to drink: cosmopolitans or martinis.

Are you still standing? Do you have any money left? If you've answered yes to either, then you need to head back to the bar of your choice. If you're unable to answer, then it's safe to assume you've enjoyed some of the best and classiest bars San Francisco has to offer. Don't you wish you lived here? This useful guide will help you plan your evening out. Enjoy! House of Shields 39 New Montgomery @ Market 415-392-7732 Food: chips and salsa Open 11-9, M-F Tonga Room at the Fairmont Hotel 950 Mason @ California 415-772-5000 x5278 Food: dinner, appetizers and bar food Open 5-12, Sunday through Thursday, 5-1 on the weekend The Red Room 827 Sutter @ Leavenworth 415-346-7666 Food: none Open 5-2 every day C. Bobbie's Owl Tree 601 Post @ Taylor 415-776-9344 Food: snacks only Open 4-2 every day The Redwood Room at the Clift Hotel 495 Geary @ Taylor 415-775-4700 Food: appetizers and snacks, restaurant next door Open 11-1, Sunday through Thursday, 11-2 on the weekends