Santa Fe Day Trips: So Much to See, So Little Time
by Peggy Bechko



Santa Fe clings to a broad shoulder of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, and at no time is this more evident than to the observer diving up Interstate 25 at night when the lights of the city are clearly visible in front of the shadowy bulk of the Sangres de Cristos.

The city itself has much to offer - everything from shopping for the discriminating art patron or fun-seeking souvenir collector, and museums for the history buff, to the St. Francis Cathedral and adobe churches for the spiritual seeker, not to mention the opera and chamber music festival. Lodging runs a broad gamut, and the traveler can find grub anywhere, from a corner snack cart to an elegant restaurant.

But, fortunately for the seasoned traveler, there's more to Santa Fe than the local flavor. If you're even thinking about getting bored, the opportunity for exciting, informative and breathtakingly beautiful day trips abounds. Some take just a couple of hours, while others require at least a packed picnic basket before takeoff.

But before you hurl yourself into new adventures, it's important for the enthusiastic traveler to keep in mind there's no flat terrain in these parts. Almost everything tilts one way or another, and the gung-ho traveler needs to remember that the elevation here starts at 7,000 feet and only escalates. If you venture into the surrounding mountains, obviously the elevation soars. So, some good advice: Rest frequently, breath deeply, consume little or no alcoholic beverages and drink lots of water. And don't forget the sunblock! The New Mexico sun can be deceiving.

Also, you want to make sure you don't get caught flat-footed by the summer monsoons. Usually around the end of June, moisture starts flowing from the Gulf and northern Mexico, dumping rains that are real gully-washers when an otherwise clear afternoon suddenly clouds up. Take along some cheap plastic ponchos and keep them in your glove box when you go out for a day's jaunt. If you enjoy adventure and exploring the back roads, rent a four-wheel-drive.

Want a little sightseeing, a short drive and a brush with history outside the Santa Fe mainstream? One quick trip away from Santa Fe lands you at the former ghost towns of Cerrillos and Madrid. Head south out of town on Cerrillos Road (State Road 14). If you look left after you pass beneath the overpass of Interstate 25 you may catch a glimpse of the creations of our local dinosaur builder. There's a head bursting through a tin building, a brontosaurus and her baby and a determined cowboy and his horse attempting to lasso a tyrannosaurus.

Continue south through the rolling hills. Both Cerrillos and Madrid are finding a new revival. You can dedicate two or three hours to this little jaunt, or expand it to a full day of exploring and shopping.

You'll run into Cerrillos first, nestled just a bit off the main road. Once a mining town in the 1800s, Cerrillos boasted eight newspapers, several hotels, and 21 saloons that catered to workers from 30 mines in the surrounding area. Revitalized by merchants who've now set up shop in its old storefront buildings, Cerrillos is a must-see on your route.

Next stop, Madrid. Formerly a coal-mining town, as well as a military-supply city for Santa Fe and Las Vegas (New Mexico, not Nevada) during the civil war, artists and merchants have now transformed formerly abandoned buildings into studios, galleries and shops. Additionally, if you have an interest in mining, or just enjoy experiencing snippets of the past, there's the Old Coal Mine Museum loaded with interesting exhibits, including the locomotive repair shop and displays of antique and modern mining equipment.

The Mine Shaft Tavern at the south end of town offers good food and beer, and there are a couple of other small eateries along the main street. Be aware during your visit that Madrid has very little potable water and thus it is precious. Also, the restrooms tend to be the equivalent of outhouses at public events, a.k.a. Port-O-Potties. But don't let that turn you away. The people are friendly and the main street bustling. During the summer, Madrid hosts bluegrass and jazz concerts. (And one last note, Madrid's light display at Christmas is not to be missed if your vacation in Santa Fe falls during the holidays).

Want something a little more historical? Educational? Then head for El Rancho De Las Golondrinas. The name means "the ranch of the swallows" and it's a living-history museum with heart. It'll take you about two hours minimum to do this tour justice. You'll probably even stay longer if you like to lounge beneath towering trees and soak it all in, allowing yourself to be transported to the days where living was done at a much slower pace.

To get to El Rancho from Santa Fe, head South on I-25. Turn right on exit 276, which will take you west. Follow signs to 334 Los Pinos Road. It's about three miles. Hours vary slightly by season so you might think about checking ahead before heading out. Admission is $4 general, $3 over age 62 and ages 13-18 and $1.50 ages 5-12. Golondrinas was once a stopping place on El Camino Real (the royal Road) from Mexico City to Old Santa Fe.

In a beautiful pastoral setting are restored buildings, many with head-banging doorways (watch your step!) reminding us of how much smaller the people were then than today. Since it's a living museum, it's populated with era-clad folks tending stock. There's a placita house with a defensive tower as well as a mill, smithy, schoolhouse and Penitente Chapel. The path leading to the buildings is about a mile and a half and tends to be rocky and steep in places, but we're not talking an athletic event here. People who are reasonably mobile should have no trouble with the walk.

So, maybe now you have your fill of history, shopping and exploring.

You just want a quiet day enjoying nature up close and personal. Then don't just sit there, grab some lunch and head up into the high mountains. First, any local grocery can outfit you for picnic supplies, but if you're staying downtown and don't care to drive too far, go on over to Kaune's grocery at the corner of Old Santa Fe Trail and Paseo de Peralta, kitty-corner from the State Capitol. Then get back on Paseo de Peralta (which is a street that forms a horseshoe shape around downtown Santa Fe), follow it East and stay on it as it curves around the city, now going north, until you come to the corner on which the Scottish Rite Temple (a large rose-colored stucco building) sits. That's Washington St. Turn right at the light on Washington for about a block, then turn right onto Artist Road. Now you're heading up into the mountains and in the direction of the ski basin. You're only minutes away from towering pines, cool air and mountain meadows and several 12,000- to 13,000-foot peaks.

There are lots of pull-outs where you can park if you keep your eyes open, places where you can take a short walk amongst the pines and aspen, enjoy the chirping of the birds and feast on your picnic goodies. Aspen Vista, near the top, just a short distance from the ski basin, is not to be missed if you're traveling in the fall. The shimmering gold of the rustling leaves seems to cascade down the mountain side in a showy display of dazzling beauty. Just a little further up the road is an overlook on your left where you park, get out of your car, and it feels as if you can see forever as you gaze back on Santa Fe below.

Continue on, intrepid explorer, to the top. The ski basin. There are some lovely trails (though somewhat strenuous) starting out from there which either ascend or descend the mountains. Keep in mind at this point that what goes down from where the car is parked, must come up. In other words, remember you have to climb back up what you've just gone down and believe me the return trip can be exhausting. Once you've reached the top, you'll find restroom facilities, a few picnic tables and the ski lift. If the lift is operating when you visit (summer or fall), you might want to take a ride. The views are spectacular.

And, at day's end, you'll descend that winding road on your return to Santa Fe, with thoughts of good food and a soft bed. As you return, you'll notice Ten Thousand Waves, where a good hot soak, a cold plunge and/or a wonderful massage might be in order. The atmosphere is Japanese, the service friendly, and the caressing warmth of the bubbling water in the tub, either public or private, is heavenly. Enjoy your soak along with a good meal. Rest. Gear up for tomorrow.